Many trees have noticeable splits in the bark of their
trunks or limbs. There are a number of potential causes.
The outer layer of bark is a dead protective layer. As the
trunk grows outward adding a new bark layer the old layer may split or slough
off. This is especially noticeable in some trees, like river birches, white
oaks and shagbark hickories.
The trunk of a shagbark hickory, Carya ovata. |
Tree species with thin bark, including, ornamental cherries,
maples, and fruit trees, can be damaged by sunscald or frost cracks. Damage by
both sunscald and frost cracks will always be on the side of the tree receiving
the most sun… the south or southwest. The temperature of bark receiving sun can
change drastically in a short period of time. This causes tissue to shrink and
expand and could rupture the bark. Frost cracks are likely to form in previous
injuries.
Normal bark splits in a red maple, Acer rubrum. |
Usually these splits are harmless and the tree heals
itself. However, it can allow decaying fungi or wood-boring insects to enter,
especially if it hasn’t healed in the spring and summer when these organisms
are active.
Sunscald on the trunk of a peach tree, Prunus persica. |
Some activities make trees more prone to bark splitting.
Over-pruning limbs can suddenly expose more bark to the sun without giving the
tree time to adapt. It is better to gradually prune any unwanted limbs, if you
have to prune at all. Fertilizing, particularly with nitrogen, at the end of
the growing season (late summer, early fall) can induce growth, making the tree
more susceptible to bark splitting and frost damage. Trees that do not get
adequate water during the growing season may be more prone to bark splitting
damage.
Frost crack in the trunk of a black cherry, Prunus serotina. |
Fruit growers prevent bark splitting by painting the trunks
of their fruit trees with a white reflective paint. This will buffer the trunk
bark from excessive temperatures during the day.
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